On Project Runway, Fabio Costa was just as famous for his own unique wardrobe as he was for his own take on gender neutral clothing – something he has continued to create with his own brand, NotEqual. On the most recent season of Project Runway All Stars, he became part of the infamous Fab Five, five men of colour (four of whom were LGBT), who all helped each other throughout the process and together, made it to the final five. Michael Turnbull catches up with Fabio to discuss the show, his Brazilian heritage, growing up in New York and his obsession with Japanese culture. 

Like me, you grew up in two countries when you were younger; Brazil and America. How do you reflect on your time in Brazil/America and where do you feel your allegiances lie?
I’m Brazilian at heart – ‘mineiro’ (born in Minas Gerais) at that. My elementary school field trips were to baroque churches or cave trekking. I moved to New York in 2006 for a draping course at FIT and ended up staying twelve years. Lol. I love NY, but it was always my plan to go back home.

You said you come from a very traditional culture…
Brazil is a very religious country, we have countless Catholic holidays, throughout the year! LOL. Where I’m from is especially conservative. But my mom has lived in New York over thirty years and I’ve been visiting her since I was eleven, sometimes twice a year. So that culture clash opened up my life experience from an really early age. If I had to say what influenced my sense for style the most, it was the nightlife. I sometimes found myself at after-hours clubs, aged fifteen, sneaking in with fake a ID, just to see the outfits. Being a club freak was such an exciting time and the loss of boundaries was the most empowering experience. It has shaped how I want to feel in clothes.
I came out at eighteen and it was not easy. My family is really baptist and they didn’t accept me for many years. Sometimes I still don’t feel they do. But it was my decision, I made to own my true self and I’m proud of it.

You’ve also said, ‘You need to feel uncomfortable.’ Has there ever been a time when you felt, ‘Er…this is a bit more uncomfortable than I would like!’
I think life’s always more comfortable than I would like. And maybe that’s the true nature of the feeling, discomfort is never expected, nor controlled. It’s what I can create from it. The anxiety keeps me moving. Lol.

Looking back on your own personal style, what do you think has been your most radical outfit of choice?
One birthday I left the house draped in the bed sheet I slept on (it was pastel rainbow stripes) with a couple of safety pins and grey drop-crotch pants. A true homeless vision. I knew I’d made a bad decision before I even reached the end of the block and I regretted wearing that outfit all day.

What’s the worst response you’ve had to wearing a skirt in public?
The worst reaction to anything I’ve worn, was the outfit above. People would move seats on the subway and stare me down with anger. I can’t remember feeling that ashamed ever.

In this shoot you’ve been inspired by Japanese culture and fashion. What is it about Japanese style that inspires you?
When I was twelve I watched a documentary about Maikos (young geisha trainees) and it hit me like a punch! My adoration for everything Japanese began then. It’s obvious Japanese fashion is a huge influence for me. Their culture overall is so poetic in its devotion to the craft that I just can’t help but have this deep obsession with anything Japanese.

Can you tell us about your thoughts behind your shoot for us?
Well, I actually feel I’m entering the Maiko stage of my life. I have fully committed to what I am going to do for the rest of my life – which is to create clothes. Although my goal as a creator is not to repeat tradition but to honour it by translating my distorted fantasies. I used four white shirts ranging from sizes M-3XL and using only their original closures, I reviewed arranged tradition.

Were you always interested in gender neutral clothing?
I was never a conformist. I wore skirts to high school and would get chased. At first, gendered clothing was a way for me to break down boundaries. It wasn’t, ‘Neutral is a way to mock society and its bigotry.’ Nowadays it has become a way of inclusion through style. I think my influences have stayed the same since I can remember. Yohji, Comme and Margiela – they will always be my heart.

If you were to set up a fashion house with another Project Runway contestant who would it be?
Probably Sonjia. She has such a creative mind and creates clothes that are super feminine but strong. I think we could complement each other’s aesthetic very well…and I love her.

What’s the best piece of advice Tim Gunn gave you?
‘Bitch slap that bitch!’ I was fighting with some Chevron sequin fabric and when he came over, I said that it was being a bitch. His response was, ‘Bitch slap that bitch back!’ I still can’t even…

I really feel the show lost its way and went for the ratings when it had the twins on. But then I really feel everything came back together with The Fab Five and that really showed what an incredible show it is. How do you see the progression of the show since the first time you were on it and the most recent time?
To be honest I think that show stayed the same. What happened was that they had contestants come back and realize what their well-oiled machine was actually up to. We figured out the recipe and used it to our advantage. The show will always create runway moments but in the last All Stars season, we took over the storylines while turning looks.

Which famous person would you most like to see in NotEqual?
Tilda Swinton. For sure. I don’t even care if it’s the obvious choice. Haha…

What are you working on at the moment?
I am working on a Fall collection, inspired by the Janissaries (Ottoman Empire infantry). Modern times are headed in such a violent direction that we could have armor built into our clothes. Padding and quilting will be ornate but will serve a protective purpose.

Lastly we’re named after the infamous Mariah Carey song, ‘Loverboy’. What’s your favourite Mariah song?
I’m not a huge Mariah fan – sorrryyyy! But I do love the ‘Thank God I found you (Make it last)’ Remix. She’s got long braids in the video and it’s such an iconic 90s moment to me.

Find out more about NotEqual here and follow Fabio on Instagram.
All photos by Greg Endries. See more of his work here & follow him on Instagram.